Considered the “most dangerous hike in the United States,” the climb to the peak of Angels Landing attracts thrill seekers and adrenaline junkies from around the world. It also attracts the attention of almost every visitor to Zion National Park, from seasoned adventurers looking for another check-off on their travel bucket lists to families completely unprepared for a hike of this magnitude.
The sheet drop-offs that make the hike so attractive are also the features that make it deadly: there have been 18 confirmed deaths attributed Angels Landing, resulting both from falls and from cardiac events on the trail, whether induced by exertion, heat, or terror. That’s in addition to the non-fatal rescues that occur every year. These and other tales, such as those recounted by Zion Search and Rescue in Deaths and Rescues in Zion National Park: (2nd Edition), make for chilling campfire stories, less so hiking inspiration!
There are over 90 miles of established trail, and many more miles of canyons to explore, in Zion National Park, yet the half mile of cables still attracts over 200,000 hikers each year under the permit system, with thousands more vying for the opportunity. We were not immune to the “must do” characterization of the hike, so were very excited when I received the email announcing my success in the permit lottery!
I couldn’t wait to celebrate the completion of this hike and add another Hiker Medal to our growing collection. Though we enjoyed the experience, we ultimately failed to summit Angels Landing. There are countless blogs about successful hikes to the top of Angels Landing, but you rarely hear from those who didn’t and that’s largely why I felt compelled this share. It wasn’t the right trail for us that day, but that doesn’t mean it’s won’t be the right trail for you!
Table of Contents
The West Rim Trail to Scouts Lookout
The original plan was to summit the Angels Landing as we were hiking out along the West Rim Trail as part of a multi-night backpacking trip on the Zion Traverse. I had timed the Angels Landing permit perfectly to coincide with the backpacking itinerary – no easy feat as each permit windows opened at two different times! A lingering March snowpack left us unable to complete the route as intended, so instead we’d be day-hiking the classic route up from the Grotto.
We’d been watching the forecast obsessively since arriving in Zion, but were already aware that the forecast for the lower elevation in Springdale was almost meaningless when it came to determining conditions elsewhere in the park, particularly at higher elevations. It had rained all night at Watchman Campground, but by morning the sun started to peak out between the cloud cover, even as freshly fallen snow dusted the surrounding sandstone mountains.
We donned our rain jackets just in case as we started up the West Rim Trail towards Scouts Lookout. A good portion of the trail is paved between the Grotto and Refrigerator Canyon, but it was still covered with a thin layer of mud. Between the tread of our hiking boots and the use of trekking poles, we didn’t have a problem with traction as we made our way up the initial sections of switchbacks, camouflaged into rock face so perfectly that it’s almost impossible to see from below until you spot other hikers.
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The overcast skies provided some nice, cool temperatures which were much appreciated during the 1000 ft climb. For seasoned hikers, the switchbacks aren’t anything to be concerned about but this is not an ‘easy’ hike for beginners. We saw numerous people struggling to catch their breath and trying to push themselves to keep up with their friends or family.
Proper pacing is the key to switchbacks. Many novice hikers attempt to climb too quickly and then burn-out; it’s a lot harder to overcome burnout than it is to prevent it. If you find yourself leaning over to catch your breath in-between each switchback section, you’re probably trying to move too fast. Slow down and adopt a “rest step” technique: this allows you larger muscles to rest – even for a split second – in between each step.
The switchbacks leading up to Angels Landing are plenty wide with lots of opportunity at each turn to stop, pause, and take in the view. It took us less than 30 minutes to hike the 1.5 miles through the lower section of switchbacks – some kids and trail-runners ran past us on the way up and we passed plenty of others. If you are unsure of your hiking ability, conservatively give yourself an hour for this section of the trail.
After the lower switchbacks, the trail enters the dark and narrow Refrigerator Canyon. Even in the peak of summer, this area is cool and shaded – a nice reprieve from the sun. It’s also a nesting ground for the threatened Mexican Spotted Owl. Apart from signage reminding you to keep your voices down to a whisper while walking between the echoing canyon walls, we’ve never seen evidence of the owls, but it’s nice to know the possibility exists.
It was at this point that we started to hit the snow line and encounter patches of unmelted snow. We were also becoming noticeably damp – whether because we were hiking through the moisture of a low hanging cloud or because it was lightly raining it was difficult to determine.
After hiking through the canyon, the trail turns to approach the base of Walter’s Wiggles, a CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp) project completed in 1935 as part of Roosevelt’s New Deal program to provide economic recovery via employment following the Great Depression. The 21 switchbacks supported by hand-hewn brick and rock retaining walls scale the last serious elevation up to Scouts Lookout. When you hit the Wiggles, you’re nearly to the top of the un-permitted section!
Right at the top of the Walters Wiggles is Scouts Lookout – the most common destination for those without Angels Landing Permits. What many don’t realize is that you can continue on the West Rim Trail to get even more panoramic views, including views of Scouts Lookout itself. On this trip, though, we didn’t venture further since we were continuing onto Angels Landing Trail.
The Cables to Angels Landing Summit
We reached Scouts Lookout just shy of noon, the time of our permit, and there were dozens of people at Scouts Lookout already. I had double-checked that the permit was saved as a screenshot on my phone since there’s no guarantee I’d have been able to pull up the email to show the ranger. To our surprise, and dismay, there was no ranger checking permits at the start of the cables this day, probably due to the inclement weather. As a result, many people without permits (as word was spreading) were taking advantage of the situation. This was the first nail, if you will, in what would ultimately be our decision to turn back.
I donned my gloves, packed away our trekking poles, and then waited for a break in the stream of climbers exiting the cables before heading up. We were doing it! The cables were absolutely freezing to the touch, but necessary to maintain your stability on the sandstone. Whether it was because of how wet the ground was or due to the nature of the erosion, some areas were particularly slick, even with the traction of our hiking boots. This is not a place you can afford to slip!
Within the first hundred yards, there was a lot of two-way traffic on the trail. One women made it maybe halfway up this first section of cables before declaring her need to turn around, visibly shaken and apologizing as she navigated the downward slope towards level ground. I felt very solid on this section, so dipped down under the cable – without letting go – giving her clearance on the main footpath. She kept seeing the faces of her children, she said, and she just couldn’t risk it should anything happen to her.
By the time we made it to the top of the first section of cables, the trail leveled out and off to the right was as a relatively large, flat outcropped with spectacular views into Zion Canyon. I had thoroughly enjoyed the chains up to this point and counted myself among the many visitors who report that it looks a lot worse online than it does in person. I briefly thought we might have already made it to the summit, until looking up towards the spine of the fin that loomed in the distance.
At the sight of the trail running along the narrow ridge, Andras wasn’t sure he wanted to continue. Even standing on the wide, flat surface of the overlook, further from the edge than would be feasible for the remainder of the climb, he started to experience vertigo. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in my years of hiking and backpacking, it’s the value of stopping to think when an unexpected decision needs to be made. There’s even an acronym for this: Stop/Sit. Think. Observe. Plan. So we stopped. We sat down on the rise, out of the way of the main trail so not obstacle to anyone else, to have the lunch we’d packed for the summit while we considered our next move.
It had started to snow and the winds began to pick up, and the longer we sat the colder we got. I could see other people, tiny in the distance, making their way up the vertical crest and a part of me recognized that up close it probably felt far less precarious than it looked from this vantage point. Everyone we passed said that the first section of cables we’d already completed was the hardest, which I could hardly believe since it hadn’t felt difficult.
I had taken my gloves off to eat my sandwich and fiddle with the camera to take some pictures, and my fingers were already starting to go numb. We had hoped that the weather would improve as the day progressed, but as we looked towards the real summit of Angels Landing, you could see the clouds start to gather at the top.
Even if Andras was able to mentally overcome his fear of heights, the dizziness he was experiencing posed a serious threat. Going up you can focus on what is ahead, but it’s impossible to make your way back without looking down.
We finished our lunch, I took a last look at the trail along the spine, and together we decided to turn back. I know Andras felt like he was letting me down by not continuing, but the truth of the matter is that the conditions weren’t safe for either of us, and there was absolutely no way I was going to have him make his way back alone only to wait for me an indefinite duration worried the entire time I’d slip and plummet to my death.
The trail was wet and potentially frozen in places. My hands were getting numb, making it hard to grasp the chains. The weather was unpredictable and there was no guarantee that the conditions would hold long enough for me to make it up and down. And without rangers to check the permits, there were a lot of extra people.
The default assumption seems to be that since so many people successfully summit Angels Landing, whether by pushing through their fear or simply not facing any, that the inability or unwillingness to continue is a sign of weakness. But experienced outdoor recreationalists recognize that this couldn’t be further from the truth: knowing your limits and respecting them is a mark of maturity and responsibility. National Parks are not amusement parks; you are solely responsible for ensuring your own safety.
On our way back, near to the start, we ran into a mother trying to get her very young child back to Scouts Lookout, absolutely terrified and livid at her husband for pushing their family to attempt the cable route. The kid was barely tall enough to reach the chains, much less hold onto them, and then as we maneuvered around the cables to let them by, both his feet completely slipped out from under him.
Lucky for all involved, I was positioned in a place where I could catch him and then practically carried him back to Scouts Lookout as his shoes had zero traction, while his mother frantically gripped the chains trying to get herself back in one piece after experiencing full blown panic in the split second immediately after her child fell. Even as others returned from the summit with tales varying between it “wasn’t that bad” to “it was actually pretty slick in spots,” if we had any lingering doubts about whether we’d made the right choice to turn around, the stress of that final situation pretty much affirmed we had.
Hiking isn’t an all-or-nothing endeavor. We didn’t summit Angels Landing on this attempt, but we still got to experience the cables on Angels Landing, relax at a view-point that many hikers overlook en route to the top and take some of my favorite pictures of the trip. None of that would have been possible had I not gotten the permit to begin with and given it a go. I can always try again when the weather is better if I want (and I probably will) but the false summit we did reach was a destination all its own.
Angels Landing Permit Process
In response to the rising popularity of the trail, permits are now required to access the cable section near the top of Angels Landing 24 hrs a day, every day of the year as part of the Angels Landing Permit Pilot Program. Hiking past Scouts Lookout towards the summit of Angels Landing without a permit is punishable by a $5000 fine and up to six months in jail.
There are two ways to obtain a permit: an advanced Seasonal lottery held quarterly, at least 40 days in advance and the last minute Day-Before lottery, held, appropriately, the day before the permitted date. There are no walk-up permits available.
To register for the lottery, you need to login to Recreation.gov and locate the appropriate lottery (listed by season) for your desired dates.
| For Hikes Occuring: | Lottery Window Open Between: | Permits Awarded on: |
| March 1 – May 31 | Jan 1st – 20th (Spring) | Jan 25 |
| June 1 – August 31 | April 1st – 20th (Summer) | April 25 |
| Sept 1 – November 30 | July 1st – 20th (Fall) | July 25 |
| Dec 1, 2025 – Feb 28, 2026 | Oct 1st – 20th (Winter) | October 25 |
The daily lottery replaces the advanced lottery for a given season once the permitting date range is reached. For instance, if accessing the lottery page on January 1st, the Spring lottery would be open for advanced permits in March – May, while the Winter lottery would be open for day-before permits through the end of February; the Summer and Fall lotteries would be closed.
A lottery entry allows for up to 7 permit choices. For each choice, you can select a desired permit date (for the daily lottery, the date will automatically be for the following date); desired entry time (before 9am, 9am – 12pm, after 12pm); and number of people. The entry time indicated is for arrival at the Grotto trailhead.
Given that you do not need a permit to hike up elsewhere on the West Rim Trail, including to Scouts Landing, the exact permitted time does not necessarily need to dictate your start time on the trail. However, these time windows are implemented to control traffic on the cables. For your safety and the safety of others, you should not attempt to begin the cables early in the morning with an afternoon permit, or vice versa.
What to Know Before Hiking Angels Landing in Zion
The day-hike to Angels Landing is 5.4 mile round trip, with nearly 1500 ft elevation gain. Although the route doesn’t require any special technical equipment, there are a few items you should bring for a safer and more enjoyable hike.
- Screenshot of your permit. You will need to show your permit to a Park Ranger if hiking to the summit of Angels Landing. The email you receive indicating your success in the permit lottery serves as your permit. There is no reliable cell reception at Angels Landing, so you will either need to pull up your permit and take a screen shot on your phone or print it out while you still have connectivity prior to arriving at the trailhead.
- Hiking poles. I primarily rely on hiking poles to take the weight off my knees during the descents, and there is significant elevation loss on the return from Scouts Lookout. Much of the West Rim Trail in this section is paved, so while you can use the carbide tips, I use rubber tips at the end of my pair REI Flash Carbon Trekking Poles to prevent scratching up the trail and get a little extra grip. After witnessing a pair of expensive Z-fold hiking poles become completely useless through normal use a day into a twelve day backpacking trip around Mount Rainier, I’ll never trust anything other than the carbon fiber traditional telescoping variety.
- Gloves. A thin pair of gloves that allows you maintain your dexterity, like the sun gloves or waterproof grip gloves, are useful on the cable section. In winter and early spring, the metal chains can get extremely cold. In summer, the sun can make them uncomfortably hot. And year round, sweaty nervous palms have reduced gripping ability (not going to lie, for this reason alone using the right gloves definitely made me more confident in my grip).
- Daypack. You’ll want both your hands free for cable section heading towards Angels Landing. I use a lightweight Deuter SpeedLite on my day hikes. I find Deuter packs extremely comfortable, even when packing upwards of 30lbs, and like the easy of access of mesh side pockets.
- Water. For the average park goer, the hike up to Scouts Lookout is considered a strenuous hike. Especially in the warmer months, you will need to carry at least a liter of water per person. There are two types of hikers when it comes to water: team water bottle and team hydration pack. Both have advantages and limitations, but don’t contribute to the trash on the trail with plastic, disposable water bottles, please.
- Hiking Shoes. You need a shoe with good traction. While this doesn’t mean a full hiking boot, it does mean you shouldn’t be wearing flip flops, old sneakers, or any number of other shoes that are perfectly fine to get you up to Scouts Lookout but are liable to slip on the slick sandstone ridges on the cables up to Angels Landing.
Should you attempt to hike Angels Landing with a fear of heights?
Maybe. Maybe not. It really depends on how strong your fear is and whether you’re looking to face that fear head-on. If you have a fear of heights you will feel it on this trail, no question. I have a healthy respect for heights and I still felt pangs of trepidation looking at one particular sandstone step carved into the narrowest section – perhaps no more than a meter across – imagining how I’d manage to get across it.
Fortunately, you aren’t committed to the entire half mile section along the spine just because you begin the cable section. You’ll know within that first section of chains if this is a hike you think you’re going to enjoy or if you risk becoming a liability to yourself and others. There is no shame in not knowing which way it will go ahead of time, and no shame in determining that for your safety and the safety of others, you need to turn back.
If you do determine you cannot or should not continue, its important not to panic. There will probably be people around you and sudden movements can put you and others at risk. Announce your intentions and need to go back. Most people will support you and help you; nobody wants to witness anyone fall from Angels Landing. A few people may make snide comments; these people are jerks whose own hubris we can only hope doesn’t one day get the best of them.
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Planning your own trip to Zion National Park? Check out our Zion National Park Trip Reports for more photos and insights!
Have you climbed Angels Landing or are you planning an Angels Landing hike? We’d love to hear about your experience or any questions you have in the comments!