Backpacking the Zion Traverse aka Trans Zion Trek

The Zion Traverse, or Trans-Zion Trek (TZT) is a multi-day backpacking route across Zion National Park. In a park known for intense crowding, the Zion Traverse offers relative solitude as it meanders through a series of canyons, meadows, and ridge lines, providing expansive views of the rock structures formed of the red and white sandstone cliffs.

Given its increasingly popularity of Zion National Park in recent years, advanced reservations are recommended for the three backcountry camping areas located along the length of the trail, though all sections of the traverse can be day-hiked without a permit.

Route Planning and Logistics for the Zion Traverse

How Long is the Zion Traverse Trail

Although the Zion Traverse originally spanned the entire width of the park for almost 50 miles, the current distance of what is alternatively called the “Zion Crossing” is 37 miles (60km), with an additional 13 miles (21 km) on the East Rim that must be accessed separately. In 2018, a rockslide temporarily closed the section of trail between the Zion Canyon Road and the East Rim, and a second rockfall in 2019 closed the trail indefinitely.

The Zion Traverse is formed by connecting several other trails together to form the route. As such, you won’t see any “Zion Traverse” or “Tran-Zion Trail” designated on any trail map. From West to East, the trails are: La Verkin Creek Trail → Hop Valley Trail → Connector Trail → Wildcat Canyon Trail → West Rim Trail.

Can you Hike the Zion Traverse with Current Trail Closures

While it is no longer possible to hike a continuous route along the original TZT, all but 2 miles (between the Weeping Rock TH and junction of East Rim/East Mesa trail) of the route remain open. For better or worse, the East Mesa to East Rim route bypasses the series of switchbacks from the main canyon to the ridge via Echo Canyon but includes the lookout at Observation Point. If your reason for hiking the Zion Traverse is to experience as many different areas of the park while covering as much open portions of the original trail as possible, this is a great alternative.

If you wish to hike both the West and East portions of the Zion Traverse, you’ll need to coordinate the logistics for the hike as if they are two halves of a whole (because they are). The West side – between Lee Pass and the Grotto – remains the same as the classic TZT. Then instead of continuing up the main canyon road from the Grotto to the Weeping Rock trailhead, you’ll need to exit the trail and get yourself up to the East Rim.

The most straightforward way to do this (assuming you have a vehicle) is as follows:

• hike the Zion Traverse from West to East, exiting at the Grotto
• take the park shuttle from the Grotto back to the Visitor cCenter and overnight at either Watchman Campground or a hotel in the Springdale (advanced reservations required for either)
• the following morning, catch a pre-arranged private shuttle (I’ve used Red Rock Shuttles numerous times) to take you East Mesa trailhead. Ask to the follow the shuttle in your own private vehicle until the East Rim trailhead, at which point you can park your car and get in the shuttle to be taken the rest of the way to the trailhead. You won’t see this trailhead located on the website, but it will be the same shuttle that goes to Chamberlain Ranch.
• hike from East Mesa to East Rim as either a day-hike or with an overnight (separate East Rim area permit required, which you can pick up from the Wilderness Desk the day you exit at the Grotto)

If you have two vehicles, limited parking is available at the East Mesa/Observation Point trailhead to shuttle between the two trailheads yourself.

Which Direction to Hike the Trans Zion Traverse

There are two main considerations in decided which direction to hike the Zion Traverse: transportation to the trailhead and elevation gain.

West to East: Lee Pass to the Grotto

Hiking the Zion Traverse from West to East means that you begin the trip with a shuttle to Lee Pass and then hike back towards Zion’s Main Canyon. The park shuttles run every 10-15 minutes until the evening on a set scheldule, so you don’t have to worry about timing your exit to meet up with any pre-arranged transportation, though do you have to make sure you finish your hike before the shuttles stop running. If you’re staying in Springdale after your backpacking trip, this means you can hike out at leisure and then take the shuttle back to the Visitor Center. Alternatively, if you have your own vehicle you could choose to park at the Lee Pass trailhead and then arrange a private shuttle back to your car from the Visitor Center.

Hiking in this direction also means you begin and end the trip with a loss of elevation: a 1250ft descent from Lee Pass to Kolob Canyon and a 3000 ft descent from West Rim to the Main Canyon. The vistas also get increasingly better the further into the trip you go, culminating with the famous views of Angel’s Landing. This does mean you’re hiking towards the crowds on your last day.

Hiking West to East is the most popular way to hike this trail. It is also the one that we prefer and therefore recommend.

East to West: The Grotto to Lee Pass

Starting at the Grotto means that you’re reliant upon the park shuttle to the trailhead. The park shuttle can be crowded in the early mornings but if you plan to begin your trip later in the day this could be preferable. Though you’ll begin the trip with the crowds hiking up towards Scout’s Lookout, you’ll leave them behind shortly thereafter and are unlikely to encounter very many others for the remainder of your time in the backcountry.

Hiking in this direction puts a significant portion of elevation gain at the beginning of your trip, gaining 1500 feet within the first two miles and then an additional 1500 ft in the next several miles to follow. It also culminates with the sands through Hop Valley and portions around La Verkin Creek before ending with a suitably scenic, but less dramatic, uphill stretch to the trailhead at Lee Pass.

When to Hike the Zion Traverse

March – April. Whether or not the Zion Traverse will be hike-able this time of year depends largely upon the snowpack and weather. Portions of the route could still be buried under snow until later in the season or turn muddy as it begins to melt. In areas where the trails are clear, the cooler days make for pleasant hiking. Water is also more generally available as the springs are more likely to be running. Spring storms can be bring heavy winds, snow and/or rain which could interrupt a trip.

May – June. The best of early spring brings warm weather and wildflowers with mild weather. Once the snows have melted and temperatures warm, the trails are largely dry and clear, but precisely when those conditions arrive are difficult to predict. Sawmill Spring is the first to dry up as the season progresses, but other springs continue to run until mid-summer. Flies can be a nuisance in certain locations.

July – August. By summer the trails are clear of snow and roads to all the trailheads are open. The same hot daytime temperatures that melted the snow can also lead to hot and sweaty days on the trail. Combine that with limited available of water sources as the springs dry up and maintaining hydration requires careful planning, either by caching or carrying extra water.

Sept – October. A Zion park ranger has told us this is the nicest time of the year to hike the Zion Traverse. Trails are free of snow and the temperatures have begun to level off. Early storms could bring snow or precipitation at the higher elevations unexpectedly.

The best way to assess conditions prior to a trip is to email the rangers at the Wilderness Desk for up to date reports on water availability and trail conditions.

Caching Water when Backpacking the Trans-Zion Trek

Due to a toxic bloom of cyanobacteria in the Virgin River, it is not advisable to drink or filter water from any water source other than a spring. Even when conditions are optimal, there are no reliable water sources along the 13 miles between Beatty Spring (near La Verkin campsite 10) and Wildcat Spring (1.5 miles from the junction with West Rim Trail). Depending on where you disperse camp in the Northgate/Wildcat area, you could also be looking at a night of dry camping.

Especially if you are hiking when the weather is warmer, we recommend caching water at Hop Valley Trailhead, roughly 6 miles from Beatty Springs/La Verkin campsites and 7 miles from Wildcat Springs. Clearly mark your water contains with your name and the date you intend to pick them up. There is a trash-can at Hop Valley Trailhead. If Wildcat Spring is not running, you may also want to consider caching water at Lava Point as well.

Caching water is not required, but it is a good idea. You will otherwise need to carry additional water with you on the longer stretches, especially if not all the springs are running. One (1) liter of water weighs 2.2 lbs (1 kg); that extra weight means extra time on the trail, which means extra time exposed to hot and dry conditions. A little extra planning can make for a much more enjoyable trip since you won’t have to ration every drop. If you end up caching more than you need, share it with the backpackers and trail runners who didn’t prepare as well. They’ll make themselves known the moment they see you with gallons for water, trust us!

Getting Permits for the Trans Zion Trek

Backcountry camping in Zion National Park requires a permit from rec.gov. Advanced permit reservations open according to the following scheldule:

For Trips Starting During	Permit Window Opens
January – March	December 5th at 10:00 a.m. MT.
April – June	March 5th at 10:00 a.m. MT.
July – September	June 5th at 10:00 a.m. MT.
October – December	September 5th at 10:00 a.m. MT.

Permit reservations are competitive! To increase your chances of getting your desired itinerary, log into to the reservation portal as soon as the reservation window opens. Set a calendar reminder.

Only certain campsites are available to be reserved in advanced, though you are able to book multiple consecutive nights at locations on a single permit. Several campsites in each location, along with 12 individual person slots for dispersed camping at Wildcat Canyon, are reserved for walk-up permits, obtainable 24 hrs in advance, in-person at the Wilderness Desk inside the Visitor Center. If you are unable to get your entire desired itinerary, keep in mind that you are able to change sites and/or extend your trip once you pick up your permit if there is walk-up availability. You are not able adjust your start date.

You must carry your permit on you at all times. A permit reservation costs $20 plus an additional $7 per person per night. Bear in mind that even with a camping reservation you will still need to cover the park entrance fee of $20 if you do not have a valid interagency pass.

When securing an online reservation you’ll be prompted for enter your vehicle make, model and license plate number. If you plan to rent a vehicle during your trip, enter “Rental” into each of these fill boxes and then bring your rental car license plate information with you to the Wilderness Desk when you go to pick up your permit.

Camping Along the Trans-Zion Trek aka Zion Traverse

Along the La Verkin Creek, Hop Valley, and West Rim Trails camping is only allowed in the designated campsites. There is no camping allowed anywhere along the Connector Trail. All camping in Zion National Park requires a permit, even if camping in the dispersed areas.

Wildness campsites are primitive and camp fires are not allowed. Many of the campsites do have large rocks and/or logs that make for communal sitting areas as well as level areas to pitch to your tent and trees to hang a hammock.

There is no running water or pit toilets at any of the campsites and you must pack our all your trash, including human waste. Commercially available “wag bags” are designed specifically for this purpose and are recommended for both novice and experienced outdoor poo-ers. These all-in-one toilets contain everything one would need in the backcountry, including powdered enzyme to break down waste and reduce odor, toilet paper, wet-wipe and double layered bag. Carrying these bags with you is not optional. Rangers will ask you if you have them when picking up your permit. If you don’t, you can purchase wag-bags at the Visitor Center or at the various outfitters in Springdale for ~$4-5/each.

La Verkin Creek & Hop Valley Campsites

Traveling West to East from Lee pass, the first campsites you’ll encounter are in La Verkin Creek area. There 13 campsites located along the La Verkin Creek Trail and two campsites located in Hop Valley. La Verkin Creek campsites 2, 4, 5, 8, 11 and Hop Valley A are available for advanced online reservation. All others are available 24 hrs in advance for walk-up permitting.

There are two springs located near these campsites: one unnamed spring near site #7 and Beatty Spring located beyond site #10 close to the turnoff to the Hop Valley trail. Most of these campsites offer relative privacy and are spaced well apart from one another. Sites #8 and #9 are the only two campsites that would be considered very proximate to each other, but site #8 is itself so large (it is reservable for up to 12 people and easily fits multiple tents) that privacy is unlikely to be an issue.

Dispersed in Wildcat Canyon and Northgate Peaks

Permits in the Wildcat Canyon Camp Area allow for dispersed camping in select areas along the Northgate and Wildcat Canyon Trails, and are located at roughly the halfway point of the trek. Campsites must not be visible from the trail and be at least a quarter mile away from Wildcat Spring, a feat which isn’t at all difficult to adhere to since the spring is located along a section of trail that doesn’t afford enough space to safely pitch a tent between the trail and the cliff anyway.

A section of dispersed camping spots with views of Wildcat Canyon are located at the far side of the meadow, just as the trail begins its descent to the spring. The permissible area it shaded grey in the Backcountry Wilderness Guide but common sense also makes it clear where camping is and isn’t allowed. Past the meadow, the trail cuts along the side of the ridge so if you’ve reached the spring, you’ll need to backtrack up the hill to find a safe spot to camp.

West Rim Campsites

There are nine campsites located along the West Rim Trail, with sites 2, 4, 6 and 8 reservable for advanced online reservations. The remaining sites are only available for first-come, first-serve walk-up permits no sooner than 24 hrs in advance from the Wilderness Desk.

When running, Potato Hollow Spring is located near to West Rim Site 8 and Cabin Spring is located near West Rim Site 1. The most desirable sites are those located along the rim and which provide sweeping views of the topography below. If hiking from Lee Pass, Campsite 6 is the first to be encountered along the rim, but sites 3-5 also offer views of the hills with lookouts within walking distance. If hiking from the Grotto, West Rim Site 2 is the first campsite along the trail, which also has views of the canyons below.

What to Pack when Backpacking the Zion Traverse

• Water filter. There is no potable water anywhere along the Zion Traverse. All water from the springs must be filtered before drinking. We like how quickly we can filter liters of water with our MSR Miniworks EX, even at the springs that are little more seeps forming small pools in the ground. You do not need to purify for viruses in Zion when filtering from a spring.
• Water bladder. Carrying extra water is essential on the long dry stretches of trail or when camping at a distance from one of the springs, such as in the Wildcat Canyon Area. We each carry an empty 2L Platypus for this purpose, which only weighs 1.3 oz (36g).
• Wag bags. Packing our your waste is not optional and digging catholes is not permitted. There are only two outhouses along the Zion Traverse: one at the Hop Valley Trailhead and another at Scout Lookout. The standard estimate is to pack one wagbag per person, per day.
• Sand gaiters. The trail between La Verkin Creek and Hop Valley is extremely sandy. The soft sand itself will already be slowing your pace considerably, and having to stop every fifteen minutes to dump sand out of your shoes prolonges an already tiresome stretch. Keep your shoes sand free with a pair of gaiters. My sand gaiters aren’t anything special, but they stay in place all day and keep out the sand.
• Food. To optimize nutrition while reducing weight and clean-up, we prefer to carry freeze-dried meals on our backpacking adventures that can be rehydrated with boiling water from our Jetboil. Many ready-made backpacking meals are heavy on the sodium, so we prefer to make our own light weight backpacking meals using easily obtainable ingredients.

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Read our backpacking trip reports from the Zion Traverse for photos and insights!

• Day 1: La Verkin Creek Trail through Kolob Canyons
• Day 2: Hop Valley to Wildcat Canyon
• Day 3: Hiking and Camping along the West Rim Trail – coming soon
• Day 4: From West Rim to the Grotto – coming soon

Did we leave something out? Let us know what further questions you have about backpacking the Zion Traverse in the comments and we’ll respond with an answer.