The Halemau’u Trail descends via a series of narrow, stone switchbacks down to the volcanic valley of Haleakalā National Park. At 3.7 miles (6 km), this is the shortest route to the crater floor; with a 1390ft feet (320m) decent over 2.8 miles, it’s also the steepest. Unlike the other trails within Haleakalā crater whose main features are the volcanic landforms, the primary highlight of the Haleakalā switchbacks are the views that position Haleakalā crater within the island geography of Maui itself.
We hiked this trail as the last leg of three night/four day backpacking trip into the dormant volcanic crater in November.
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Planning your own trip to Haleakalā? Check out our Guide to Backpacking inside Haleakalā National Park
Sunrise over Holua Campground inside Haleakalā
Our plans for the day were hike up the Halemau’u switchbacks back to the trailhead, then drive down Haleakala highway into Kahalui to shower and resupply before hitting the Road to Hana. It was an ambitious itinerary so we set the alarm early. Watching the sunrise from the summit gets all the press, but this was perhaps one of the most magnificent sunrises in recent memory. The photos simply don’t do it justice.
First a band of crimson warmed the horizon behind the silhouette of Hanakauhi. Gradually the clouds turned amber and mauve against a blueing sky. Next came the pinks and lavenders above a sea of pastel cotton candy clouds.
Click on galleried photos to enlarge and view as a full-screen slideshow.
So mesmerized we were by the sunrise that the sun was practically in the sky before we made it quarter mile from the Holua campsite to the cabin. The next mile was a gentle warm-up for the hike to come. The trail crosses the final stretch of lava flow as it gentle descends approximately 300 feet and then levels out for a walk through a grassy meadow.
The Hawaiian phrase halemau’u translates to “grass house”, and according to a historic NPS brochure the trail name is said to have acquired its name from such a house near the trailhead. It felt like a more fitting name for Holua cabin – a house in the grasses – but walking through tall, damp grasses from the morning mist was also a distinctive aspect of this trail.
It took no time, maybe 15 minutes, to reach a wooden gate and the base of the switchbacks. From here, it would be up, up, up all the way to the trailhead.
Hiking the Halemau’u Switchbacks to Rainbow Bridge
From the base of the cliff, a series of historic stone-cut switchbacks weave their way up and around the towering Lelewei Pali. The original trail was established in the 1930s as part of the Civilian Conservation Core work relief program that supplied manual labor jobs during the Great Depression. It was designed to blend into the natural landscape and was constructed entirely with hand tools and mules. It does indeed feel like you are scaling the very cliffs themselves.
Despite the significant elevation gain, the next two miles did not feel unduly strenuous. The early morning hour kept the trail shaded, which helped, but it’s also a testament to the labor that went into maintaining the grade of the trail. At times the trail was quite rocky, and at others it was hard packed dirt, but it was a relatively gentle, continuous incline throughout.
The first half mile of switchbacks came easily – it was exhilariting to look back upon how far we’d come in just over an hour as the expanse of the valley floor spread out before us. We could look out across the expanse and make out not only the cabin of Holua, but the cinder cones further afar in the crater which we’d passed by the day before.
Soon after the sun peaked over the rim. It was around that time that the trail appeared to reach the top of the rim. It was the first of several “false finishes” that we’d experience – thinking we’d climbed to the rim only to discover that the trail shifting to the northern side.
As we rounded the corner, views of Koolau Gap opened up leading all the way down to the Pacific Ocean. Between the clouds we could see the entirety of the Keanae Valley all the way down the coast. In only a few more hours, we’d be driving that way towards Kipahulu and Hana.
No sooner had the trail flipped to the north did it flip back to the south. It did this once more in quick succession, each time promising the rim only to reveal further to go.
The south facing portion brought us close to the wall of Leleiwi Pali. Looking up from the valley floor, the lower section of switchbacks is prominently visible, but the upper section blends so seamlessly into the landscape that we had only been making guesses as to where it went. It turns out that there is, in fact, an old switchback trail, long obscured by a rockslide and no longer accessible, that cuts down a deep ravine, but what we thought may have been the trail was just some rocky striations.
Finally, after one long traverse and final switchback, we made it to the ridge.
The Halemau’u Trail to Haleakalā Crater Rim
With the sun overheard, the temperature began to rise considerably so the shadow of the far side of the ridge came as a relief. As the trail leveled out, we celebrated how quickly and easily we’d scaled the cliff. The views weren’t quite 360°, but as the trail crossed the ridge you could see unobstructed views from both the north and south. This section, as we were later learn, is referred to as Rainbow Bridge, presumably for the rainbows on either side of the island you’d see if the conditions were right.
If venturing down from the trailhead for a day-hike, this would make for a good turn-around point. As it was, we still had another mile and 400 ft elevation gain to cover, made much more difficult by the premature celebration of having reached the rim.
The focus was solely on getting back to the car – the views no longer felt new, the trail was rocky and it seemed endless. After what felt like forever (in actuality, less than half an hour) we arrived back in the parking lot of Halemau’u Trailhead, completing our 20 mile circuit within Haleakalā National Park!
Read more backpacking trip reports from Haleakalā National Park
- Day 1: Hiking the Sliding Sands Trail to Palikū
- Day 2: Exploring Palikū and Kaupo Gap
- Day 3: Hiking the Halemau’u Trail from Palikū to Holua
- Day 4: Hiking the Halemau’u Switchbacks – that’s this trip report!
Planning a Hike on the Halemau’u Switchbacks Trail
The Halemau’u Switchbacks Trail is an incredibly unique experience with Haleakala National Park. No permits or reservations are needed to day-hike any portion of this trail; reservations and permits are required to camp overnight at Holua. Standard park entrance fees of $30 apply, unless you have an America the Beautiful Interagency Pass.
The Halemau’u Trailhead is located inside Haleakalā National Park along the Haleakalā Highway. The turnoff for the parking lot is located around the corner from the Hiker Pick-Up area and is well marked.
How long is the Halemau’u Trail?
The full length of the Halemau’u Trail will take you to all the way across the volcanic crater to the lush, subtropical cliffs of Palikū, but as with most trails within Haleakalā, the trails can be divided into sections to create a hiking itinerary that suits multiple ability levels. A short 2.2 mile round trip to the “Rainbow Bridge” overlook will provide exceptional panoramic views of the crater valley and Koolau Gap while avoiding the steep and narrow switchback section.
You can create a much more intense 7.4 mile round-trip day hike by going down the switchbacks to Holua cabin and then back up the trailhead. Keep in mind that even though this option will It also forms part of a longer 11 mile point-to-point “loop” hike connecting the Keonehe’ehe’e (Sliding Sands) Trail.
Can you hike Halemau’u Trail with a fear of heights?
Despite photos that may make it seem as though the trail is perched narrowly on the side of a cliff, the trail is generally at least 3 ft (1m) wide with few to no sudden drop-offs.
Subjectively, the part of the trail that may cause the most anxiety to someone with a fear of heights is the Rainbow Bridge, a brief section of trail two miles from the trailhead that follows the crest a ridge line for approximately 10 yards. The cliff slopes away on both sides of the trail, but it would still take some special effort to fall.
The trail between Rainbow Bridge and Halemau’u Trailhead traverses the middle of a hillside, with no ledges. Anyone worried about the height could hike the mile to this first overlook and decide there if they wish to continue or turn around. Even if you turn back, you’ll still get an impressive crater view and the opportunity to see some of the alpine shrubland up close in this two mile round trip route.
How to Prepare for a Hike on the Halemau’u Switchbacks
Little special preparation is required to day-hike the switchbacks of Haleakalā along the Halemau’u Trail. There are, however, a few things to keep in mind for a safe and enjoyable hike:
- High altitude. The Halemau’u trailhead is located at nearly 8000 ft elevation. As with all high altitude hikes, proper preparation is key. There are numerous viewpoints along the drive up Haleakala Highway. Unless you are camping along the crater, either at a backpacking site or at Hosmer Grove, taking your time on the drive so that your body can slowly acclimate to the elevation.
- Weather. The weather on Haleakalā crater can differ dramatically from the weather along the coast. Temperatures can be cool, especially before the sun rises. Low clouds can also make conditions on the trail wet or damp. Pack a warm outer layer and raincoat.
- Rocky trail surface. Until you reach the valley floor, the Haleamau’u switchbacks trail is often rocky and uneven. While hiking boots are not strictly necessary, study shoes with thick, cushioned soles are encouraged.
- No cell reception. There is no cell phone reception along the Halemau’u trail. While the trail is well marked, you will still want to do download any maps and guides in advance.
- Leave no trace. Always follow the seven principles of Leave No Trace. There are restrooms and trash receptacles at the trailhead parking lot. Use the facilities before you go and pack out your trash. Even leaving behind ‘biodegradable’ products like toilet paper and fruit peels can impact the environment, harm wildlife, and diminish the experience for others of hiking in such a unique place.
Have questions about hiking the Halemau’u Switchbacks Trail? We’d be happy to answer in the comments below.