Our backpacking itinerary allowed for two nights of camping at Palikū campground. The first day we had hiked in from the summit of Haleakalā along the Sliding Sands Trail. We then had a full day to explore the Kaupo Gap before hiking out along the Halemau’u Trail via Holua to complete the full 20 mile backpacking loop through the crater valley.
Table of Contents
Planning your own trip to Haleakalā? Check out our Guide to Backpacking inside Haleakalā National Park
Waking Up Inside a Dormant Volcano
The clouds that were starting to roll in when we arrived at camp last night condensed into a heavy downpour overnight. The sun presumably peaked over the horizon to the anticipation of those on the summit, but it was impossible to tell from our vantage point. We hunkered down inside the tent long after waking until the methodic sound of rain drops on the tent wall started to dissipate.
It had already been a bit of a rough night. In our haste to get to the Hiker Pick Up for a shuttle to the summit while there was still some morning traffic on Haleakala Hwy, we sped through our typical pre-departure checks. In the flurry, Andras mistook the new backpacking chair in his pack for his (also new) sleeping pad. This went unnoticed until we were setting up camp. Fortunately, each tent site was located on a flattened area of grass so the ground was reasonably soft. After a bit of trial and error, we figured out a way to share mine in a manner that would allow both us to get some sleep.
The morning’s struggles did not end there. The Jetboil, which was working fine the night before, now wouldn’t strike. It’s not a new issue and the solution is simple: use a lighter or a match. Except, those, also, were nowhere to be found. Emergency fire starters, one of the 10 Essentials, alway stay in our packs; we have become habituated to their permanent presence. However, lighters are not allowed in checked baggage, and we’d checked our packs on the flight to Maui.
Facing a cold wet day, after sub-optimal sleep and inability to cook hot food, this adventure through the magical landscape of the volcanic crater valley was taking a turn. We cold soaked some oatmeal and instant coffee so as to prevent the “hangry”s from being added to the list of issues.
With the rain slowly letting up, I began looking for movement around the campground. In addition to backcountry campsites, Palikū also has a hiker cabin and ranger outpost. No one was stationed at the ranger outpost during the time of our visit, but the cabins, equipped with wood burning stoves, book almost immediately. Gotta have something to light those stoves with! I was hoping only to borrow a match or two but was relieved when one the campers gave us a spare lighter from his pack.
Exploring Kaupo Gap Trail
Now with the most pressing problem solved we could start thinking about the day ahead. The clouds lifted around midday, making it a good time to explore the Kaupo Gap trail.
The Kaupo Gap Trail is marked with signage a quarter mile the Palikū, but becomes less maintained as it descends into the rift, eventually exiting the National Park altogether as it continues to the ocean. I’d read conflicting accounts of this trail. The allure, in part, seems to hinge on creating a continuous hike from summit to sea. If you started at the Haleakalā summit, hiked down the Sliding Sands/Keonehe’ehe’e trail to Palikū and then continued down the Kaupo Gap trail, you could achieve a nearly 10k feet descent in around 16-17 miles, depending on where you ended the hike at Kaupo.
On paper that sounds pretty impressive. In practice, I think you’d need a lot of factors to line up in your favor to make for a pleasant trip. The least predictable, and most important of which, being the weather. Clouds would obscure the views, but heavy rains could also wash away whatever remained of the trail, becoming both a navigational and safety hazard. This was a risk we had no intention of taking.
The first few miles from Palikū, though, the trail was somewhat overgrown but relatively easy to follow. Koa trees clung to the ridgelines and the ‘ōhia trees were in bloom with their fiery red flowers. Ferns and woody shrubs lined either side of the trail. The melody of dozens of different birds filled the air, giving the entire area of vibrancy that stood in stark contrast to the unearthly silence of the crater floor yesterday.
Roughly half a mile from camp, a series of short, well-graded descents start to cut through the ridges, interspersed by flat grassy meadows. Lack of use had allowed the grasses to grow long, and the footpath through the meadows was often obscured.
At the edge of each meadow, we would look down, hoping to see signs of the water — but the low clouds only offered a sea of white. After crossing the third meadow, we estimated that we’d have not quite a thousand foot elevation gain to return back to camp. That would be enough without any promise of a view.
Birdwatching at Palikū Campground
Back at camp, the sun has broken through the clouds and was starting to dry everything off. Palikū is home to the endangered nēnē, or endemic Hawaiian goose. Nēnē generally mate for life and, like most geese, are territorial. A couple whom we affectionately named Art and Art’s wife (derived from the letters we could make out from the yellow leg band) permitted us to share their foraging grounds around our tent.
It was unfortunately clear that these two had become accustom to campers. Nēnē are federally protected, and you are absolutely not supposed to feed them. Birds who get too comfortable around humans are at greater risk of death on roadways, not to mention the negative health effects from whatever introduced food they happen to consume. They showed up right around the time we were cooking so we had to quickly move everything out of reach. The glow-in-the-dark tab on my camp chair bag was still too much of an enticement. We eventually had to put everything in the tent until they finally moved through.
Fifty-years ago the population of nēnē had dwindled to around 30 birds, putting the species on the brink of extinction. Due to conservation efforts and protections afforded by the Endangered Species Act, there are roughly 3000 nēnē today.
Another pair of unbanded nēnē also meandered through the campsite at various intervals. Most nēnē ventured in pairs, but the arrival of a single bird caused quite a stir! Feathers were literally ruffled right outside the tent as the solo bird got into a tiff with one of the breeding pairs.
Hanging out with the nēnē and watching for other native birds, like the ‘amakihi, were the highlights of Palikū. This was once an area that you could find the kiwikiu, or Maui parrotbill, but they are now critically endangered due to a combination of habitat loss, predation and, most recently, an avian malaria. Fewer than 200 birds are thought to exist in the wild.
The weather had fully cleared by the late afternoon. It was nice to relax in between hiking days. Now equipped with a lighter (so thankful for this), dinner was a hearty serving of our homemade backpackers penne marinara “lasagna” with freeze dried mozzarella and parmesan.
We planned to rise early and hit the trail before sunrise, both so we could see the sun crest over the crater and so that we could hopefully see some dark sky after the moon had set. Didn’t take any photos, but the stars were absolutely magnificent and the clear skies heralded good weather for our hike back across the crater valley the next day.
Read more trip reports from Haleakalā National Park
- Day 1: Hiking the Sliding Sands Trail to Palikū
- Day 2: Kaupo Gap and Camping at Palikū – that’s this trip report!
- Day 3: Hiking the Halemau’u Trail from Palikū to Holua
- Day 4: Hiking the Halemau’u Switchbacks
Planning a Camping Trip to Palikū and Kaupo Gap
Camping overnight at Palikū requires advanced permit reservations from the Rec.gov. Permits are for a numbered campsite, but at the time of our trip there were no campsite markers present. There was a map on site of the general campground layout, which vaguely corresponded to the obvious looking areas to pitch a tent. Without a ranger available to clarify campsite locations when we were there, most campers seemed to pitch their tent in an available open spot of their choosing.
How do I get to Palkū Campground?
There are three ways to arrive to Palikū: hike the 9.3 mile Keonehe’ehe’e (Sliding Sands) Trail from the Summit, hike the slightly longer, but lower elevation, 10.4 mile Halemau’u Trail, or hike the unmaintained 7-8ish mile trail straight up the Kaupo Gap.
Since you have to hike in, you also have to hike out. We recommend hiking in via the Keonehe’ehe’e (Sliding Sands) Trail and then hiking out via the Halemau’u Trail. This decreases the amount of elevation gain on the way out and creates a more interesting half-loop that doesn’t double-back through the same scenery.
What to Pack for Backpacking in Palikū
The most important consideration to keep in mind when packing for an overnight camping trip at Palikū is water. It could rain when you least want water; the water sources could dry up when you’re thirsty for a drink.
Don’t forget to bring:
- Raingear. The weather can change hour to hour, and day to day. Just because it’s dry when you depart from the summit doesn’t mean it will be dry throughout the entire trip. Palikū is located on the edge of a rainforest. It’s literally in the name.
- Water filtration/purification system. There is no potable water anywhere in the crater, and that includes at Palikiū campground. There is a spigot connected to a cistern that collects the rainwater, but this water still needs to be treated before drinking.
- Extra water bladder. Depending on the weather, the non-potable water sources at the campgrounds may not be reliable. In times of drought, the cisterns run dry. While this is less likely to be a problem at Palikū than at Holua, you still have to filter or treat any water that comes from the spigot. We found it very handy to carry a 4L water bladder for “dirty” water that we could then filter directly into our water-bottles for use. Had we needed to carry enough water to get us out of the crater, this water bladder would have also served that purpose.
- Sunscreen. When it’s not raining, the UV rays are intense. UV rays are stronger at higher altitudes because the atmosphere is thinner. Carry enough to reapply throughout the trip.
- Backpacking gear. You are camping afterall, so you’ll want the standard backpacking gear for this location. Don’t forget the ten essentials, sleep system, tent, extra layers, and food.
Have questions about backpacking to Palikū or Kaupo Gap in Haleakalā National Park? We’re happy to answer in the comments below.